Vitamin C is one of skincare’s most powerful ingredients - but not all forms are created equal. Known for brightening, boosting collagen, and protecting against environmental damage, this antioxidant deserves a place in most routines. But here’s the key: not all forms of Vitamin C work the same. Choosing the right one for your skin type can make all the difference - especially when it comes to sensitivity, breakouts, and results.
Let’s break it all down.
What Does Vitamin C Actually Do?
Now let’s dive into the different forms and find out which is best for your skin.
L-Ascorbic Acid (Pure Vitamin C)
Molecular Weight: ~176 Daltons
Best for: Normal to oily skin, sun damage, pigmentation
Irritation Level: High
What it does.
This is the most researched and effective form of Vitamin C. It penetrates deeply and works fast - but it’s also unstable and can be irritating, especially for sensitive skin types.
Ideal if you want maximum brightness and collagen support - if your skin can handle it.
Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate (MAP)
Molecular Weight: ~214 Daltons
Best for: Dry, dehydrated, or sensitive skin
Irritation Level: Low
Why it’s gentle.
MAP is a water-soluble derivative that offers antioxidant protection and skin brightening with very low irritation risk. Bonus: It’s hydrating and skin barrier friendly.
Perfect for sensitive skin that still wants a glow-up.
Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate (SAP)
Molecular Weight: ~322 Daltons
Best for: Acne-prone and oily skin
Irritation Level: Low
The acne ally.
SAP not only brightens skin - it also has antimicrobial properties, helping reduce breakouts and inflammation. It’s stable, non-irritating, and gentle enough for daily use.
Ascorbyl Glucoside
Molecular Weight: ~338 Daltons
Best for: All skin types, especially beginners
Irritation Level: Very low
This stable.
Water-soluble form converts into L-Ascorbic Acid in the skin over time, giving you antioxidant benefits without the sting.
Great choice for: Vitamin C beginners or anyone with combo skin.
Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate (THD Ascorbate)
Molecular Weight: ~872 Daltons
Best for: Mature, dry, or reactive skin
Irritation Level: Very low
Luxury C.
THD is oil-soluble, meaning it penetrates deeper into skin layers. It’s super stable and effective at boosting collagen and reducing pigmentation - with minimal irritation.
Let's see how they compare in a table.
How to Get the Most from Your Vitamin C
Where Does Vitamin C Fit in My Routine and Is It a Necessary Step?
Yes, Vitamin C can be a powerful (and often necessary) step - especially if you’re targeting dullness, hyperpigmentation, or signs of aging. It’s not a “must” for everyone, but for most skin types, it’s a game-changer.
When to Use Vitamin C?
Use it in the morning, after cleansing and before moisturizing and SPF.
Apply on clean, dry skin, followed by your favourite hydrating serum or moisturizer.
Layer it correctly!
Cleanser → Toner (optional) → Vitamin C Serum → Moisturizer → SPF
Why in the morning?
Vitamin C boosts your SPF by protecting against free radicals like UV rays and pollution. Think of it as antioxidant armour for your skin throughout the day.
Do you need Vitamin C?
If you're
What Is Dalton Weight and Why Does It Matter in Skincare? Daltons are a unit of measurement used to describe the molecular weight of an ingredient. In skincare, the Dalton size helps determine how well an ingredient can penetrate the skin barrier.
Quick Facts
The stratum corneum (outermost layer of skin) acts like a gatekeeper (not a sponge)
For an ingredient to penetrate effectively, its molecular weight typically needs to be under 500 Daltons (a rule called the 500 Dalton Rule).
Smaller molecules = deeper penetration.
So, when it comes to Vitamin C...
In short: Dalton weight affects how deeply an ingredient can work, how fast it works, and how likely it is to irritate the skin. That’s why choosing the right form of Vitamin C matters!
Why Is Vitamin C a Powerhouse and Can We Get It from Food or Supplements?
Vitamin C is considered a skincare powerhouse because it does so much: it brightens dull skin, boosts collagen production, fades hyperpigmentation, and protects against environmental damage like UV rays and pollution. As an antioxidant, it neutralizes free radicals unstable molecules that accelerate skin aging and inflammation.
But here’s what makes it even more valuable: our bodies can’t produce Vitamin C on their own. That’s why getting it through skincare, diet, or supplements is essential.
Can We Get Vitamin C from Food or Supplements? Yes we should.
Vitamin C-rich foods like oranges, kiwis, strawberries, bell peppers, and leafy greens support overall skin and immune health from the inside out. Supplements can all help, especially for those who have deficiencies or higher needs due to stress, illness, or poor diet.
However, topical Vitamin C is still important because it delivers the ingredient directly to the skin, where it’s needed most. Only a small percentage of dietary Vitamin C reaches the skin, so combining internal and external sources is the best way to maximize benefits.
In short: Yes, you can get Vitamin C through food and supplements - but for visible skin results, a good topical product seals the deal.
Final Thoughts
Whether you’re fighting dullness, acne scars, or early aging, Vitamin C is your glow-getting ally. The trick is picking the right type for your skin.
So… Vitamin who?
Now you know - it’s Vitamin C, and it’s your new favourite skincare step.
If you want to know which Vitamin C serum is right for you.
Book a skin consultation via the link below, or DM me on Instagram @theskincellclinic for personalised recommendations!
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