Vitamin Who? Vitamin C - Breaking Down the Glow Vitamin

Lauren Sadler - Skin Specialist

Vitamin C is one of skincare’s most powerful ingredients - but not all forms are created equal. Known for brightening, boosting collagen, and protecting against environmental damage, this antioxidant deserves a place in most routines. But here’s the key: not all forms of Vitamin C work the same. Choosing the right one for your skin type can make all the difference - especially when it comes to sensitivity, breakouts, and results.

 

Let’s break it all down.


What Does Vitamin C Actually Do?

  • Brightens skin and evens tone
  • Stimulates collagen production
  • Protects against free radical damage (UV, pollution)
  • Helps fade acne scars and dark spots
  • Strengthens the skin barrier

 

Now let’s dive into the different forms and find out which is best for your skin.

 

L-Ascorbic Acid (Pure Vitamin C)

Molecular Weight: ~176 Daltons

Best for: Normal to oily skin, sun damage, pigmentation

Irritation Level:  High

 

What it does.

 

This is the most researched and effective form of Vitamin C. It penetrates deeply and works fast - but it’s also unstable and can be irritating, especially for sensitive skin types.

 

Ideal if you want maximum brightness and collagen support - if your skin can handle it.

 

Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate (MAP)

Molecular Weight: ~214 Daltons

Best for: Dry, dehydrated, or sensitive skin

Irritation Level:  Low

 

Why it’s gentle.

 

MAP is a water-soluble derivative that offers antioxidant protection and skin brightening with very low irritation risk. Bonus: It’s hydrating and skin barrier friendly.

 

Perfect for sensitive skin that still wants a glow-up.

 

Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate (SAP)

Molecular Weight: ~322 Daltons

Best for: Acne-prone and oily skin

Irritation Level:  Low

 

The acne ally.

 

SAP not only brightens skin - it also has antimicrobial properties, helping reduce breakouts and inflammation. It’s stable, non-irritating, and gentle enough for daily use.

 

Ascorbyl Glucoside

Molecular Weight: ~338 Daltons

Best for: All skin types, especially beginners

Irritation Level:  Very low

 

This stable.

 

Water-soluble form converts into L-Ascorbic Acid in the skin over time, giving you antioxidant benefits without the sting.

Great choice for: Vitamin C beginners or anyone with combo skin.

 

Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate (THD Ascorbate)

Molecular Weight: ~872 Daltons

Best for: Mature, dry, or reactive skin

Irritation Level:  Very low

 

Luxury C.

 

THD is oil-soluble, meaning it penetrates deeper into skin layers. It’s super stable and effective at boosting collagen and reducing pigmentation - with minimal irritation.

 

Let's see how they compare in a table.

How to Get the Most from Your Vitamin C

  • Store in a cool, dark place (air-tight and away from light)
  • Use in the morning under SPF for extra UV protection
  • Start with gentle forms if you’re new or sensitive
  • Pair with Vitamin E and Ferulic Acid for boosted results
  • Be consistent, results improve with time!

Where Does Vitamin C Fit in My Routine and Is It a Necessary Step?

Yes, Vitamin C can be a powerful (and often necessary) step - especially if you’re targeting dullness, hyperpigmentation, or signs of aging. It’s not a “must” for everyone, but for most skin types, it’s a game-changer.

 

When to Use Vitamin C?

Use it in the morning, after cleansing and before moisturizing and SPF.

Apply on clean, dry skin, followed by your favourite hydrating serum or moisturizer.

 

Layer it correctly!

Cleanser → Toner (optional) → Vitamin C Serum → Moisturizer → SPF

 

Why in the morning?

Vitamin C boosts your SPF by protecting against free radicals like UV rays and pollution. Think of it as antioxidant armour for your skin throughout the day.

 

Do you need Vitamin C?

 

If you're

  • Struggling with acne scarring
  • Battling pigmentation
  • Looking for more glow
  • Interested in preventative anti-aging
  • …then yes, Vitamin C is a highly recommended step. But if your skin is extremely reactive or you're just starting out, gentler forms like MAP or SAP are a great introduction. 

What Is Dalton Weight and Why Does It Matter in Skincare? Daltons are a unit of measurement used to describe the molecular weight of an ingredient. In skincare, the Dalton size helps determine how well an ingredient can penetrate the skin barrier.

 

Quick Facts

 

The stratum corneum (outermost layer of skin) acts like a gatekeeper (not a sponge)

 

For an ingredient to penetrate effectively, its molecular weight typically needs to be under 500 Daltons (a rule called the 500 Dalton Rule).

 

Smaller molecules = deeper penetration.

 

So, when it comes to Vitamin C...

  • L-Ascorbic Acid (~176 Daltons) penetrates easily but can be irritating.
  • Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate (~872 Daltons) is larger but still effective due to its lipid-soluble nature, allowing it to pass through the skin’s oil-loving layers.

In short: Dalton weight affects how deeply an ingredient can work, how fast it works, and how likely it is to irritate the skin. That’s why choosing the right form of Vitamin C matters!

 

Why Is Vitamin C a Powerhouse and Can We Get It from Food or Supplements?

Vitamin C is considered a skincare powerhouse because it does so much: it brightens dull skin, boosts collagen production, fades hyperpigmentation, and protects against environmental damage like UV rays and pollution. As an antioxidant, it neutralizes free radicals unstable molecules that accelerate skin aging and inflammation.

 

But here’s what makes it even more valuable: our bodies can’t produce Vitamin C on their own. That’s why getting it through skincare, diet, or supplements is essential.

 

Can We Get Vitamin C from Food or Supplements? Yes we should.

 

Vitamin C-rich foods like oranges, kiwis, strawberries, bell peppers, and leafy greens support overall skin and immune health from the inside out. Supplements can all help, especially for those who have deficiencies or higher needs due to stress, illness, or poor diet.

 

However, topical Vitamin C is still important because it delivers the ingredient directly to the skin, where it’s needed most. Only a small percentage of dietary Vitamin C reaches the skin, so combining internal and external sources is the best way to maximize benefits.

 

In short: Yes, you can get Vitamin C through food and supplements - but for visible skin results, a good topical product seals the deal.

 

Final Thoughts

Whether you’re fighting dullness, acne scars, or early aging, Vitamin C is your glow-getting ally. The trick is picking the right type for your skin.

 

So… Vitamin who?

Now you know - it’s Vitamin C, and it’s your new favourite skincare step.

 

If you want to know which Vitamin C serum is right for you.

 

Book a skin consultation via the link below, or DM me on Instagram @theskincellclinic for personalised recommendations!

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